Surges, Stowaway and a Change of Plans

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tao of dating ali binazir Waiting, waiting, waiting and filling in the days with emails, reading, games of backgammon  and a little work. Marcelo does his daily hour long swim in Agia Paradiso. I may have to ignore a bad knee to take up running on the road for some exercise or end up in the asylum here in Leros. There used to be almost 800 people committed here, now there are just a couple of hundred +1 maybe.

Marcelo and Tom playing Backgammon aboard Pakilar.
Marcelo and Tom playing Backgammon aboard Pakilar.

http://havanatranquility.com/daeso/5139 Tom and Marcelo play tennis daily at the town courts near the marina. Looking good! They have a great volley going usually. I will be inspired to find a sport. Writing only exercises my fingers…but they are very thin!

Marcelo and Tom at the Courts in Leros
Marcelo and Tom at the Courts in Leros
Tom on the Leros Courts
Tom on the Leros Courts
Marcelo Returning a Serve
Marcelo Returning a Serve
Guess Who Won!
Guess Who Won!

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gay man dating transman Marcelo tells us that our neighbors noticed a mouse sitting near our companionway steps.   Bad news for a boat. They chew through the electrical and waterhoses. We have to find it or them and get them off. Boats are touching and mice and rats can jump, so this happens. We are off to the hardware store to find traps but only find glue traps. We set one under the companionway steps and the other in the V Berth.

click here now Food all sealed up in hard plastic containers.Tom and I check out the location of the gym in Leros. It is centrally located in town but only open for classes (no idea what classes since it is in Greek) at various hours throughout the day. I need a plan B. Tom and Marcelo play tennis.

rencontre 4e type film Dinner tonight at Taverna Dimitris “Okaraflas”Tel: +30 22470 25626 in Spilia-Leros. Dimitri Pantelidis, our chef, serves the entrees. It is decidedly more home style cooking with very unique menu choices than you probably would find in most Greek restaurants. The waitress was charming and gave us great advice. A little cool tonight so we sit inside.   We eat a local cheese cooked in a clay pot…delicious. We also ate a tuna carpacio that was excellent.   The fresh tuna salad was also a recommendation from our waitress. Tom and I chose the grouper for our entrée…very good!  Back to the boat! Traps are set. Rain is starting.

agence de rencontre ville quebec May 27, 2015 Storm, Surge, and Stowaway

you could look here Terrible storm last night. So glad we are at the dock. Lots of lightning flashes and a big surge. Weather dramatically improved today and we need a change of scene, so we get ready to head for Patmos. A neighboring boat is leaving the dock when they notice the line attached to the corpo morto is under their keel and then gets wound around the propeller.   No steerage, he just floats in between and the boats while the marina staff scrambles to help. No one wants to jump into the not-very-clean water to cut the line loose. ‘Rooky mistake’ we are thinking. He must have been careless.   Our snobbery ends when the same thing happens to us. Marcelo thinks the surge during the night lifted the boats over the mooring line, catching the keel and ultimately the propeller when the engine started. Marcelo puts on his wetsuit and does in to cut the line. We are free and underway in a short time. Kudos to Marcelo once again. Our neighbor is still floating aimlessly.

femme nu rencontre No luck on our traps. The mouse/rat ate the cheese off of one and the peanut butter off the other without getting stuck. Time to get serious.

Pleasant sail to Patmos. About 9 knots of wind aft of the beam / downwind. We anchor in our favorite harbor here, Grikos.

Grikos Harbor, Patmos, Greece
Grikos Harbor, Patmos, Greece

Less crowed than the town harbor and closer to our favorite restaurant, Apocalypsis, in the Patmos Aktis Hotel.   Contact our favorite artist here, Katarina Murati. She joins us for dinner. Tom, Marcelo, Katarina and I enjoy a fabulous meal with unique offerings from Chef Dimitri. My scallop carpaccio with ouzo was amazing. Marcelo even gets his favorite dessert “Number 1”, so named because it was the first on the menu for quite awhile. It is a delicious semifredo.

May 28, 2015

Beautiful day in Patmos! We rent a car from Theos and head into town for some grocery shopping at the A&B market in Skala. High priority on our shopping list is a few rat traps…the droppings we see suggest a larger creature than a mouse.   We head back for Marcelo’s fabulous avocado salad. It is so good that it is addictive!

Tom and Marcelo try out the tennis courts in town. The courts are in bad shape and they come back disappointed. Swimming will be the exercise of choice for now but the water is COLD. Mid June or a more shallow bay and it will be warmer and there will be no need of a wet suit.

Dinner is at the Taverna next to the Patmos Atkis hotel.   Breezy night so we sit in a sheltered place on the veranda. I can order my favorite zucchini friti and a host of other mezzas.   We make the short ride back to the boat, check email, and set the traps.

May 29, 2015

Success! The rat is dead in the trap. We all would have preferred to set it free rather than kill it but the risk of getting bit was too great. Everything on the boat gets a good scrub.

We get sad news this morning. Tom’s brother calls to tell us their 100 year old mother is in the hospital. Her kidneys and heart are failing. Tom gets online and buys a ticket back to Maine to be with her. Nothing is available until Monday. A few hours later, we receive another call. Tom’s Mom has passed away. She had a very full life and she did not die in pain. Still, it is very hard to lose her. We always want our parents to be there. Who else will love us unconditionally?! Tom will still head back to Maine on Monday to be with his siblings and attend to matters surrounding her death.

We head for Leros. Tom will be flying to Athens and onward from there on Monday. The wind is strong, 25 to 30 knots, with occasional gusts. Up to the mid 30s. It is a downwind sail with only the jib flying. Pakilar reaches a speed of 11.6 knots. The sea bubbles and churns like a pot of boiling water. We sail true and fast. We remember to enjoy the moment.

 

 

 

Leros to Patmos, May 2015

May 26, 2015

Marcelo tells us that our neighbors noticed a mouse sitting near our companionway steps.   Bad news for a boat. They chew through the electrical and waterhoses. We have to find it or them and get them off. Boats are touching and mice and rats can jump, so this happens. We are off to the hardware store to find traps but only find glue traps. We set one under the companionway steps and the other in the V Berth.  Food all sealed up in hard plastic containers.

Tom and I check out the location of the gym in Leros. It is centrally located in town but only open for classes (no idea what classes since it is in Greek) at various hours throughout the day. I need a plan B. Tom and Marcelo play tennis.

Dinner tonight at Taverna Dimitris “Okaraflas”Tel: +30 22470 25626 in Spilia-Leros. Dimitri Pantelidis, our chef, serves the entrees. It is decidedly more home style cooking with very unique menu choices than you probably would find in most Greek restaurants. The waitress was charming and gave us great advice. A little cool tonight so we sit inside.   We eat a local cheese cooked in a clay pot…delicious. We also ate a tuna carpacio that was excellent.   The fresh tuna salad was also a recommendation from our waitress. Tom and I chose the grouper for our entrée…very good!

Back to the boat! Traps are set. Rain is starting.

May 27, 2015 Storm, Surge, and Stowaway

Terrible storm last night. So glad we are at the dock. Lots of lightning flashes and a big surge. Weather dramatically improved today and we need a change of scene, so we get ready to head for Patmos. A neighboring boat is leaving the dock when they notice the line attached to the corpo morto is under their keel and then gets wound around the propeller.   No steerage, he just floats in between and the boats while the marina staff scrambles to help. No one wants to jump into the not-very-clean water to cut the line loose. ‘Rooky mistake’ we are thinking. He must have been careless.   Our snobbery ends when the same thing happens to us. Marcelo thinks the surge during the night lifted the boats over the mooring line, catching the keel and ultimately the propeller when the engine started. Marcelo puts on his wetsuit and goes in the water to cut the line. We are free and underway in a short time. Kudos to Marcelo once again. Our neighbor is still floating aimlessly.

No luck on our traps. The mouse/rat ate the cheese off of one and the peanut butter off the other without getting stuck. Time to get serious.

Pleasant sail to Patmos. About 9 knots of wind aft of the beam / downwind. We anchor in our favorite harbor here, Grikos. Less crowed than the town harbor and closer to our favorite restaurant in the Patmos Aktis.   Contact our favorite artist here.   Katarina Murati. She will join us for dinner.

Schooner moored in Grikos Harbor, Patmos Greece.
Schooner moored in Grikos Harbor, Patmos Greece.
Grikos Harbor photo.  Hermits used to live in this rocky promintory in the sea.
Grikos Harbor photo. Hermits used to live in this rocky promintory in the sea.

 

2015 Voyage – At Sea Again

May 19, 2015 Bodrum, Turkey
Arrived last night on the BA direct flight from London to Bodrum. Avoided the usual transit and change of terminals in Istanbul making this direct flight a dream. I feel like I am always saying goodbye. It is hard to leave daughters and a grandchild in London. Now it is time to focus on the “hellos” and remember that my fortunate ability to travel is not forever.

Tom accumulates some good spouse ‘points’ booking me a Hammam at the Turgutries Marina where our boat is docked. This is a must try if spending time in Turkey or Greece! Fabulous body scrub and massage! The masseur whips the soap through a long cheesecloth fabric to create a mountain of foam to wash and massage your luffa polished body. Feel a bit jet lagged today and the hammam really helped. There is a wonderful Macro supermarket a short walk from the Turgetries Marina. It has tons of choices and most of the specialty items and brands that would be unusual and lucky finds most places. We stock the boat with many of their goodies…minus the dark chocolate Hob Nobs that I have learned to crave in London. Headed for Italian Restaurant across the street from the Turgetreis Marina. Hardworking staff and simple food.

May 20, 2015
Leaving Brodrum and headed to Leros, Greece today. Spent the morning with the ship’s agent to clear out of Turkey. She drove us to immigration in town. A lovely, pregnant and migraine suffering government clerk processes us with an ashen face. She actually takes us into a room with a booth like you might see in an airport to officially stamp our passports. We wished her well and headed back to the boat. As we prepare to leave the harbor, workmen are rolling up the mega banner of Ataturk. Thought I would try and impress my children by taking a selfie with Ataturk but bright sunlight on my Iphone screen often keeps me from getting the photo I want…me younger, not looking quite so tired.

Selfi with Ataturk poster in Bodrum
Selfi with Ataturk poster in Bodrum

Power out and find some wind running south/southwest. The wind seems to die and I head down for a nap. A new and strong wind arrives and I end up holding onto the rail of my bed’s bookcase for the next hour to stay in my bunk. Too tired to head on deck and even too tired to change to the leeward bunk. Anchor in Xirokambos Bay, Leros, Greece. Meltemi expected tonight and tomorrow and this bay provides lots of protection. Dinghy is away and we head to shore to pick up our rental car to go to dinner at one of our favorite restaurants on the island…Taverna Mylas in Agia Marina. Takis, the owner, and his two sons Yorgos,, our waiter, and Mario, our chef, greet us. Breezy tonight so we sit in a glass paneled room that looks on the sea., an Old Windmill, and the lighted Leros (Pandeli) castle. Lovely.

May 21, 2015 Xirokambos Bay, Leros, Greece.
Always nice to be at anchor! This is a great bay that provides protection from the meltemi expected today. We wake, sleeping well with just a bit of a roll. Switched on the generator that promptly decides to quit after a minute. Marcelo spends hours researching the problem. Safer to have a working generator, particularly at anchor. Tomorrow we will head to Lakki Harbor and the Leros Marina for their mechanic. Marcelo takes a break from his meat-meatloving owners who head in town to eat a cow. Locals recommend “Io TLelpivo” (Tel: 2247024807 Located: right next to the post office just one block up from the town harbor) for their meat. The atmosphere is fine with indoor and outdoor eating. Charming and hardworking family runs it. Best steak since I left the States. Probably not the right night to eat meat, since I am still dragging and a little off…but I enjoyed every moment.

May 22, 2015 Lakki Bay, Leros, Greece.
Tough night. I was suffering from some intestinal problems. I actually worried that I might need to wake someone to take me to the doctor. It is always a bit scary to think of an emergency visit to a doctor when you are away from home. Is it a Greek quotation “Time cures all things”? Eventually, it will be the final cure.

May 23, 2015 Leros, Greece. Generator problems keep us on island. Two weeks ago it was the boiler, next the passarella (flawed from the start), and now the generator. Turns out to be electrical. The part may arrive Monday. House or boat, it is always a matter of repair. Tom, Marcelo and I take the opportunity to go to the market both fruit and grocery, drop off laundry, catch up with old friends on island, visit the restaurants that we remember as good, and research the ‘missed’ places of interest. The Lonely Planet mentions a 4th Century Temple of Artemis on the north end of the island near the airport that is “has yet to be excavated”. Maybe next time!

Marcelo Aboard Pakilar May 26, 2015
Marcelo Aboard Pakilar
May 26, 2015

Watched the Leros Marina staff use the travel lift take a 70ft. sloop out of the water. Tom explained the blow-by-blow of the operation and even pointed out a potential problem before it occurred that took staff an extra 20 minutes to correct. Once I felt the marina’s staff had the problem in hand, I headed back to the boat for showers and off to a restaurant called “Esperides”. Esperides is closed. If my Greek is any good, and it isn’t, they are undergoing renovations. We had back to Taverna Mylas for a fabulous meal outside on the water. Marcelo’s fava bean and octopus soup was great, along with my Greek version of jumbalaya and Tom’s red mullet ceviche.

Panoramic View from Taverna Mylas in Leros, Greece
Panoramic View from Taverna Mylas in Leros, Greece

May 24, 2015 Leros Marina, Lakki, Leros, Greece
Sunday, Sunday, Sunday…time to go to church. We pick the Agios Isodoros Church, built on a small island off the western coast of Leros. A long lighted walkway extends out over the water and leads to the traditional white and blue one room chapel. The southwest wind is strong, kicking up waves that wash over the walkway. The combination of wet and slippery keeps me at bay. We take our pictures and include a panorama shot with an obliging donkey that turns and poses for us. The ride to and from the church is filled with small stops for gas, muesli that Marcelo likes, and a pharmacy. Upon our return, we enjoy a delicious meaty -mushroom pasta that Marcelo made.

Afternoon naps are part of our regular routine. Upon our awake, Marcelo says he is going to a beach on the east side of the island and away from the wind to do his regular hourly swim. Do we want to come? We ride to Agios Paradiso and use the parking lot at the Taverna Paradiso to access the beach. Marcelo dons his wet suit, googles and flippers and heads off. Tom and I head to the restaurant for some tea and then go for a short walk on this rocky beach. We watch Marcelo make his speedy and rhythmical passage back and forth along the coast. A long-poled fisherman with bait bigger than any of the fish he catches also provides us some entertainment. Beautiful panorama. We make a quick drive through the charming village of Pandeli with its winding narrow streets, huddled little houses, and baby fishing boats in the harbor. It is an evening with showers, avocado salad for dinner, and a fabulous movie called “A Thousand Goodnights” with Juliette Binoche. (It is about a war correspondent reconciling her job with her family life.) The movie is another marvelous Marcelo recommendation.