On the Way to and in Symi

les sites de rencontre gratuit au canada June 30, 2015

partnersuche duisburg kostenlos This morning we leave Astypalea for Knidos on the Datcha Penninsula in Turkey. We sail on a beam reach to this charming bay with a breakwater, a taverna, and a small ruin of a coliseum. We do not go ashore. It is a quiet and enjoyable night aboard.

internet dating somerset July 1, 2015 St. George’s Bay on Symi

my ex boyfriend is dating someone new One of our favorite places, St. George’s Bay is a small bay surrounded on three sides by high cliffs.   We anchor near the small beach.

Cliffs of St. George's Bay on Symi
Cliffs of St. George’s Bay on Symi
Photo taken by Marcelo (from cliffside) of Pakilar (lower left) in St. George's Bay on Symi
Photo taken by Marcelo (from cliffside) of Pakilar (lower left) in St. George’s Bay on Symi
Pakilar (lower left) floating in the waters of St. George's in Symi Greece
Pakilar (lower left) floating in the waters of St. George’s in Symi Greece

site de rencontre pologne gratuit The water is clear and clean and warm with pockets of very cold water. Marcelo runs lines aft to tie us off on the shore. It is hot, so Tom and I go for a swim. Marcelo decides to hike up one of the very vertical cliffs around us to take a picture of the boat.

Cliffs of St. George's on Symi
Cliffs of St. George’s on Symi
Marcelo climbing the cliffs of St. George's to take a picture of Pakilar
Marcelo climbing the cliffs of St. George’s to take a picture of Pakilar
Marcelo climbing the cliffs of St. George's on the island of Symi, Greece
Marcelo climbing the cliffs of St. George’s on the island of Symi, Greece

partnervermittlung montabaur We watch him from the boat and agonize over each step…especially on his way down. He arrives safely, thank goodness! Most of the boats leave at the end of the day. Only three boats remain, one of them a huge mega-yacht. It looks like a hotel floating on the water. They redeem their presence when they shoot off an elaborate display of fireworks that reverberate on the canyon walls. Great fun!

visite site July 2, 2015

http://gtheal.com/?marakanr=aw-dating-site&bf7=57 Wind is up but on the nose. We power to Symi just a half hour away. There is a fuel dock to the left as you enter the harbor.   We also notice a fuel truck, so we think we can get fuel while on the quay. Lots of rumors of no gas/diesel or money at ATMs. Greek citizens are limited to 60 euro per day but we have no limits…yet.   We tie up on the left, quieter, side of the harbor, navigating around two ferries and slowly, slowly backing in. Then it is off to a café across from us for a coffee and wifi. Next stop is the pharmacy and grocery store and a visit to our friend Takis’ leather store. Takis Psarros, Symi Island 85600 tel: 22460 7 1030 email: psarrosn@otenet.gr

http://web-impressions.net/fister/2062 Takis is a wonderful artist who not only makes many of the leather handbags and jackets that he sells but also creates beautiful art works on leather. He takes us to visit his most recent creation…a Greek mythology theme that took him 3,000 hours to create. We talk about Greece and the upcoming referendum and are surprised to hear that very few details of the EU plan are available to the average citizen. Tonight it is off to MiloPetras for dinner, one of our favorite restaurants. Hans, a German as you might guess from the name, is the owner and his wife is the chef. Our waitress Evangelli has been at the waitress for years and recognizes Tom right away. Excellent meal as usual…lovely shrimp starter, along with mussels and a pork dish.

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Tom and I are heading to an art show in town …young 30 something artist. However, we never quite get there. Last night Tom bought some very nice quality shirts from one of the vendors in town. As we past the store, Manolas, the store owner comes out, Tom goes in and so do I and a lot of money later, we come out. Manolas’ wife Debbie does alterations, so we walk to her store near the bridge to show her the pants. Debbie is Dutch and she and Manolas have a son who loves cycling and goes to University in Holland. Medusa I, Manolis Sartzetakis, Yalos 85600 Symi Greece Email: m.sartzetakis@hotmail .com 22460-71855. Medusa II Debby van Elburg, Central Town Square, Yialos, 85600 Symi, Greece, dvanelburg@hotmail.com 22460-71525

New wonderful find in town…a gourmet grocery store that has wonderful imported foods at fairly reasonable prices. We stock up on the specialty items that we seek elsewhere without success. Georgina’s Market (Super Market & Spirit Store) Free Delivery to Boats. Tel: 22460 71660 Mob: 6973017387 Email: fotarasnektar@gmail.com

Oh my, my, my…what a fabulous restaurant we head to tonight…Muses Contemporary Cuisine, Symi 85600, Dodecanese, Greece. Tel: +30 695 8734503 & +30 694 6437394. The chef Fernando and waiter Lisandro are brothers. Fernando was the chef of a two star Michelin Restaurant in Spain. The brothers have moved to Symi and opened the Muses restaurant a few years ago. Tom, Marcelo and I order the tasting menu, a grouping of seven bite-sized dishes of the best of the restaurant. This is one of the best meals I have every eaten. We have passed this restaurant on many occasions and noticed the very nice Italianate style paint on the building…a red with a tasteful yellow border, I know it doesn’t sound like great colors but it comes together very beautifully.

 

 

Astypalea

June 28, 2015

Georgia Kolokythaki comes sailing with us to Astypalea! Her mother Nelly drops her at the boat and will be watching the store for her when she is away.   We slingshot ourselves off the dock in a big wind…exaggeration of course. Marcelo has us set up lines that allow us to work ourselves forward alongside the neighboring boat before we gun the engine and head out mid harbor. The wind is strong and as we leave the harbor the waves grow in size to 5 to 6 feet. The waves are close together which makes them more challenging to negotiate. Georgia is a trouper. (I have stopped worrying a long time ago. My kids are grown and life has been good.) It must be scary but she never shows it. She partied the night before for a friend’s farewell…not a good combination with six foot waves in a 30 knot wind. No complaints, no panic…she is a woman of substance. She takes fate and whatever it hands her. I try to tell her how great Tom and Marcelo are as sailors. I think she believes me because I tell her the truth. We turn downwind, as we anticipated from the forecast and roar our way to Astypalea…10 and 11 knots.

View of the Chora on Astypalea from Livadi Bay
View of the Chora on Astypalea from Livadi Bay

Six hours later on a downwind sail, we arrive in Astypalea. Georgia was here in 2006 and had a wonderful time. We anchor in Livadi Harbor. Lovely! We dinghy into a Lonely Planet highly restaurant recommendation….Astropelos! It is on the beach and looking out on the beach with palm frond umbrellas. The Shrimp appetizer, fish soup, moussaki, and the calamari stuffed with cheese and the chickpea balls were delicious. What a nice way to end an exciting sail. Great joy having Georgia aboard.

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June 29, 2015 Second Day in Astypalea (Astypalaia)

Georgia has an early morning ferry on the 30th, so we are going to head to the old harbor, Skala, in Astypalea to make her 5:15 am ferry more manageable. We nose into the harbor. We see no other boats. We have to round a breakwater to check out a potential dockage but it looks too shallow, the charts are unclear, and the Ferry is coming. We head back to Livadi and call a car rental to meet us there. We want to see the island but the walking would be prohibitive for Tom’s hip and my aging knee. Get out the Scotch Tape! The car rental driver from Skala picks us up in Livadi and drives us to back to Skala.  AstyCar, Per Gialos-Astypalia; Tel: +30 22430 61263 Email: astycar@otenet.gr www.rent-a-car-astypalaiagr   Georgia gets her Ferry ticket and Marcelo checks out depths at the boat dock. We drive to the Chora and visit the town. Old windmills mark the entrance to the Chora.

Chora on Astypalea
Chora on Astypalea
Door to …nowhere as we enter the Chora on Astypalea
Door to …nowhere as we enter the Chora on Astypalea

We park outside and begin our walk through the Chora and up to the Castle.

It is 14th Century and build by the Venetians. People continued to live her until the earthquake of 1957 when the dwellings collapsed. I walk up to the castle with Georgia and Marcelo. Tom wisely waits below to preserve his hip.

Georgia walking up the steps to the caste in the Chora on Astypalea
Georgia walking up the steps to the caste in the Chora on Astypalea
Rita coming back from the Castle on Asypalea
Rita coming back from the Castle on Asypalea

Lunch today at Barberosa Restaurant in the Chora next to the town hall. We are the only patrons at this wonderful restaurant. We order a fabulous grilled vegetable plate that they present to us looking like an octopus with layers of eggplant, tomato and zucchini and red pepper splayed to look like the legs of the octopus.

Marcelo sitting at the Barberosa Restaurant in the Chora on Astypalea
Marcelo sitting at the Barberosa Restaurant in the Chora on Astypalea
Octopus-like creation made out of grilled vegetables at Barberosa Restaurant in the Chora on Astypalea
Octopus-like creation made out of grilled vegetables at Barberosa Restaurant in the Chora on Astypalea

We have a pork dish, a lovely fresh tuna, and more vegetables. Very, very good and creative.

Georgia decides to take a break from the boat and wander around the Chora. I forget how confining the boat can be. Tom, Marcelo, and I head back to the boat and regroup with Georgia for dinner aboard. Marcelo will be taking Georgia to the Ferry at 4:30 am, so we extend our fond farewells before bed. Great having her aboard! We hope to see her in September in Amorgos.

Sunrise on Astypalea
Sunrise on Astypalea

Amorgos Once Again!

June 24, 2015 Amorgos Bound

It is a day of contrasts…big wind, no wind, average wind, big wind with gusts. This is sailing. Back in Amorgos, stern to in Katopoulos, and happy to be here!

June 25, 2015 Amorgos Festival

Tonight is the second night of the Amorgos Festival and our new friend, Elena, is reading her poems at a church up, up, up in the hills above the city. Flower and stone markers show us the way. From the town to dirt roads, to shale steps to rocky paths that wind ever higher, we go. When the thought to turn back comes for the third time, we notice a wooden gate that marks the path…up, of course…to a very old and diminutive church overlooking the town below. The sun is setting. Others are seated on a stone wall, a small bench along the wall, and the surrounding ground. Elena greets us and makes sure that our old bodies have a place to sit along the wall. The owner of Jasmine, our favorite coffee shop and breakfast place is one of the organizers of the event. He graciously offers us a cup of wine. We wait. It is a long, long way up . A dozen more people join our group of about 50 or so before the event begins.   Three women among the new arrivals proceed to the wooden door of the small church, turn the lock and duck inside. There is barely room for them to enter but enter they do. The reading is about to begin. They exit, turn the key, and leave it on the doorstep of the church for the next visitor.

View from the mountaintop   in Amorgos…poetry and music night at the Festival
View from the mountaintop in Amorgos…poetry and music night at the Festival
View from Church on Poetry reading night at Amorgos Festival
View from Church on Poetry reading night at Amorgos Festival

It is a magical evening! Elena Beis, German born, begins to read her poems in Greek with a responsorial from a male colleague. It is a dialogue. A guitarist plays a soft interlude between verses. The sun begins its descent and provides a golden light while melodic tones echo between this woman and man and back again. The words are cryptic but the mood is peaceful and restorative. The assembled hesitate to break the silence with our applause but the effort and beauty deserve nothing less.

German born Elena Beis, before her poetry reading in Greek on this beautiful mountaintop in Amorgos Greece.
German born Elena Beis, before her poetry reading in Greek on this beautiful mountaintop in Amorgos Greece.

Singing is next. A talented young woman who plays a lot of small musical instruments…a harmonica, a small lute, a xylophone the size of a laptop, and an accordion that looks like a briefcase… sings a number of Greek songs old and new.

Musical Performer at Amorgos Festival
Musical Performer at Amorgos Festival

It’s quite lovely but a bit too long. We watch the sun set and Tom and I grow increasingly concerned about navigating our way down the mountain. We find our moment between songs (Marcelo valiantly stayed to the end) and start the long, challenging way back. Luckily, and no surprise to my children, I have my flashlight. Mid trail we meet Nelly, our friends Georgia and Mairie’s mother, who is just making her way up the hill. We try to discourage her since we think the performance is almost over but she tells us that she “…has her cell phone flashlight.”   Tom and I stop for a pita kebab on the dock to celebrate our safe return.

Mairie at the poetry reading festival night in Amorgos
Mairie at the poetry reading festival night in Amorgos

June 26, 2015

Tom and I have massages today with Theodosia, who studied the art in India…very eastern flavor with singing bowls and bells and a wonderful healing touch. Theodosia is a dancer who lived and worked in Belgium for 12 years before coming to Amorgos. Like so many of the people who live here, coming here was a conscious choice.

The Amorgos Festival continues. Tonight it is at TheQue Beachfront at Aigiali. Tom, Marcelo and I take the fifteen minute drive to a charming little community at Aigiali…neat little town with a long dark sand beach.

Theodosia and Rita at the Amorgos Festival in TheQue Beachfront in Aigiali
Theodosia and Rita at the Amorgos Festival in TheQue Beachfront in Aigiali

After three inquiries we finally find TheQue. It really isn’t open yet and the staff looks surprised to find 70 to 80 people in their bar/restaurant, even though the festival was planned many months ago. Tonight’s events include acrobats and a play. It is scheduled for a 7:30 start but the sound system, the lights are all being set up as we watch. At 8:45 the acrobats, two lovely young women who use extremely long and colorful scarves to do their acrobatic routine begin. I have seen this type of aerial work before in large events which makes it even a greater pleasure to see such a performance in a small town on the sea with less than one hundred in the audience.

Acrobats at theQue Beachfront in Aigiali for the Amorgos Festival
Acrobats at theQue Beachfront in Aigiali for the Amorgos Festival

The performers do not charge for participating in the festival. No fees are charged. Everyone is welcome. Held in different towns across the island, the festival is quite a community-building event. We learn that Theo and George, the owners of Jasmine, are the event planners.

Next is the play…a solo performance by a woman who pretends to be a transvestite with a life history that mirrors famous Greek tragedies. It is difficult to be an actor, so we hang in longer than we might in hopes of an improvement but no luck. We sneak out at as convenient a moment as possible.

Walking back to the car, Theodosia, our lovely masseuse, catches up with us and asks for a ride home. We are hungry so we ask Theodosia to join us at a restaurant here in town before we head back. She recommends Limani Katina here in Aigiali. It is 10pm and the restaurant is still busy. Not atypical here in Greece. The restaurant offers Thai food, my favorite. Most of these dishes are sold out already so we settle for some spring rolls, horta (wild spinach-like vegetable) and stuffed squid. Excellent! We have a wonderful in-depth discussion with Theodosia about life, politics (Greece’s impending default), and her future plans that may include a visit to Colorado. She has a healing gift that Coloradians would be lucky to enjoy.   Tom drives through low-lying clouds resting on the hairpin curved roads back to Katopoulos. We drop Theodosia at her doorstep and head back to the boat to burrow into our bunks with a good book. Nice evening.

June 27, 2015

Tom and I drive to the Chora to visit Mairie’s art class for children. Wonderful to watch the uncensored joy in creating in these young children! Little Elly, three and a half, has a gift. Lucky for her, Mairie is and excellent teacher… patient, supportive and instructive.   Nora, a photographer, is Mairie’s assistant in the class. May little Elly and the others, find their way to pursue art in difficult financial times.

Mairie's Children's Art Class…a poster her students created.
Mairie’s Children’s Art Class…a poster her students created.
Sweet Elly…student in Mairie's class in Amorgos
Sweet Elly…student in Mairie’s class in Amorgos

Tom and I leave to run an errand that includes a replacement rug for the galley. Next we stop for a visit with Georgia, Luckily Georgia will join us for the trip and visit to Astypalea for a couple of days, returning on the ferry on Tuesday. Next, it is coffee with Elena at the Jasmine café. Elena leaves for Munchen via tomorrow’s ferry and then flight from Athens. She will return to Amorgos in a couple of months.

Greece and this small island of 1800 people (winter census) is buzzing with news that there will be a referendum to vote on a new proposed deal with the EU forgiving 50% of Greece debt and the institution of many austerity programs. Tomorrow we head to Astypalea, so we catch up and say goodbye until September / October. Mairie comes to the boat for a glass of wine and more discussions about the July 5th referendum (Default occurs on June 30) and Greek’s future. Small bite to eat at the Hiro Restaurant ends our day.